Suivez Monique, qui depuis son retour (elle est présentement au Népal), informe et raconte régulièrement sur son Facebook:
Follow Monique, who since her return (she is presently in Nepal), informs and tells regularly on her Facebook:
monique.richardalpiniste
Follow Monique, who since her return (she is presently in Nepal), informs and tells regularly on her Facebook:
monique.richardalpiniste
(English follows) (G) Jour 29. 31 juillet 2015.Pas de nouvelles directes de Monique, mais voilà (là où est la figurine) où elle se trouve actuellement; elle passe la nuit dans le camp «Bardale», sur le chemin du retour. Il fait très chaud, trop pour cette altitude, trop pou la saison. Ce débalancement de températures fut la cause principale de cette saison sans sommet dans le Karakoram. … «changement climatique» perçu ailleurs aussi... Pour Monique, demain, ce sera la dernière portion du trek de retour; environ une trentaine de km pour atteindre Askole (cf la flèche rouge). Puis de là un jour de jeep pour Skardu, si les glissements de terrain qui ont eut lieu dans la région le permettent... Puis finalement, Skardu-Islamabad, direct en avion, si avion il y a... ou alors 2 jours en bus le long d'une route pas évidente... En tout cas, d'ici quelques heures Monique pourra reprendre la communication directe avec vous tous, et (enfin) vous pourrez retrouver et communiquer avec celle que vous aimez. Quant à moi (G) je profite pour vous remercier de votre indulgence... et de votre patience. Et remercier Monique pour sa confiance.
(G) Day 29. July 31st, 2015. No direct news of Monique, but here (see the figurine on the picture) is where she is at present; she is spending the night in the "Bardale" Camp, on the way back to Askole. It is very hot, too much for this height, too much for the season. This weather imbalance was the main cause of this 2015 season “without summit” in the Karakoram. This "climate change" is also notable in many other places in the world... For Monique, tomorrow, it will be the last portion of the return trek; approximately around thirty km walk to reach Askole (see the red arrow). Then, from there, one day of jeep to get to Skardu, ... if the landslides that have occurred in the region allow it... Then finally, Skardu-Islamabad, by plane, ... if there are planes and if weather conditions permit the flights ... or else it will be two days, by bus, along a not so “obvious” road... In any case, in a few hours, Monique will be able to resume the direct communication with all of you, and (finally) you'll be in direct touch with the one you love. As for me ( G ) I take advantage to thank you for your indulgence and for your patience. And also thank Monique for her trust.
(G) Day 29. July 31st, 2015. No direct news of Monique, but here (see the figurine on the picture) is where she is at present; she is spending the night in the "Bardale" Camp, on the way back to Askole. It is very hot, too much for this height, too much for the season. This weather imbalance was the main cause of this 2015 season “without summit” in the Karakoram. This "climate change" is also notable in many other places in the world... For Monique, tomorrow, it will be the last portion of the return trek; approximately around thirty km walk to reach Askole (see the red arrow). Then, from there, one day of jeep to get to Skardu, ... if the landslides that have occurred in the region allow it... Then finally, Skardu-Islamabad, by plane, ... if there are planes and if weather conditions permit the flights ... or else it will be two days, by bus, along a not so “obvious” road... In any case, in a few hours, Monique will be able to resume the direct communication with all of you, and (finally) you'll be in direct touch with the one you love. As for me ( G ) I take advantage to thank you for your indulgence and for your patience. And also thank Monique for her trust.
(Communication de Monique) (G) Jour 28. 29 juillet 2015. “Enfin !” s'exclame Monique, “il est possible de quitter le CB du K2. Plusieurs heures d'attente ce matin avant de commencer à redescendre le long des moraines du glacier”. Il fallait attendre qu'arrivent les porteurs nécessaires au pliage et transport du CB. Après plusieurs heures de marche sur un “chemin” de roches et de glace, en partie sous la pluie, Monique est arrivée au premier campement sur la route du retour à Skardu. Environ 90 km du CB du K2 jusqu'à Skardu. Ils devraient y arriver samedi ou dimanche, selon les conditions rencontrées. Le K2 est dans le dos maintenant... et devant de nouveaux projets et défis. “Le K2 c'est comme de la loterie, on ne sait jamais ce que la montagne nous réserve, cette année, c'était non !. Ce sera oui pour une autre fois”. Monique redit bien «c'est dommage» car elle a toujours été “très en forme” et s'est toujours sentie “forte”. Ce qu'elle a pu vivre au cours des rondes d'acclimatation; “le vertical j'ai vraiment aimé et je me suis vraiment sentie très bien”.
(Communication of Monique) (G). Day 29. July 29th, 2015. "At last !" Monique exclaims, "we can leave K2 BC. Several hours waiting this morning before trekking down along the glacier moraines". They had to wait for the arrival of the porters, necessary for the folding and the transport of all the BC stuff. After several hours of walking on a rocky and icy path, often under the rain, Monique has arrived at the first camp on the road back to Skardu. It is a 90 km trek, from K2 CB until Skardu. They should arrive there on Saturday or Sunday, depending on the weather and path conditions. K2 is now behind ... and ahead there are already future projects and challenges. "K2, it is like a lottery, impossible to forecast what the mountain reserves for us. This year, it was a “No !", for all of us ! It will be a “Yes” for another time". Monique said again "it's a pity" because she was always "in great shape" and always felt "strong". What did she experience during the rounds of acclimatization: "the vertical, I really loved it and I really felt very good".
(Communication of Monique) (G). Day 29. July 29th, 2015. "At last !" Monique exclaims, "we can leave K2 BC. Several hours waiting this morning before trekking down along the glacier moraines". They had to wait for the arrival of the porters, necessary for the folding and the transport of all the BC stuff. After several hours of walking on a rocky and icy path, often under the rain, Monique has arrived at the first camp on the road back to Skardu. It is a 90 km trek, from K2 CB until Skardu. They should arrive there on Saturday or Sunday, depending on the weather and path conditions. K2 is now behind ... and ahead there are already future projects and challenges. "K2, it is like a lottery, impossible to forecast what the mountain reserves for us. This year, it was a “No !", for all of us ! It will be a “Yes” for another time". Monique said again "it's a pity" because she was always "in great shape" and always felt "strong". What did she experience during the rounds of acclimatization: "the vertical, I really loved it and I really felt very good".
(English follows) Jour 25, 27 juillet. Avalanches qui raclent les pentes et mettent à jour de grandes plaques de glace, temps «capricieux» qui se détériore, chutes de neige et températures anormalement élevées, eau qui déferle sur la pente des Abbruzes, chutes de pierres, orages et pluie au CB... la météo s'est alliée au K2 pour dire haut et fort que son surnom de «montagne sauvage» colle parfaitement à son identité. Cette année K2 semble ne vouloir voir aucun être humain fouler son sommet... Mike Horn qui tentait pour la deuxième fois de l'atteindre a abandonné (première fois en 2013) ; «Ce n'est pas une année où l'on peut monter le K2» a-t-il déclaré. le Broad Peak voisin suit la même ligne ... toutes les équipes grimpant vers son sommet ont rebroussé chemin; beaucoup trop de neige, beaucoup trop de vent, probabilité d'avalanches, de neige et de pierres, bien trop élevée...
Durant les 3 derniers jours, montant le jour au Camp Avancé, Monique et les autres membres de son équipe ont continué à creuser la neige pour tenter de retrouver leur équipement enfoui sous l'avalanche du 23 juillet dernier. La nuit tombant, ils se retrouvaient tous au Camp de Base, discutant de l'évolution de la météo, de la situation de la montagne, évaluant les risques, pesant le pour et le contre d'une nouvelle tentative lors d'une prochaine éventuelle fenêtre météo. Puis, entre la voie Cesen et l'arête des Abbruzes, il y a eu une autre forte avalanche, déboulant de plus de 7000m ; suffisamment puissante pour que ses tourbillons latéraux atteignent les Camps I et II de l'arête des Abbruzes; c'est au Camp II ou un peu plus haut que devaient se trouver Monique et son équipe, si l'avant veille le dernier plan de l'ascension n'avait pas été stoppé par l'avalanche ayant submergé le Camp Avancé... Dangereuse montagne par nature, et encore plus lorsque les conditions climatiques sont défavorables. Avec la perte de l'équipement au Camp Avancé et au CI, la décision de ne pas poursuivre l'expédition a finalement été prise... En fait, toutes les équipes, tant du K2 que du Broad Peak, renoncent et se préparent à quitter le Camp de Base, à redescendre le glacier Baltoro et à poursuivre le trekking jusqu'à Askole (environ 4 jours de marche), puis Skardu, puis Islamabad. D'ici quelques jours Monique va pouvoir directement communiquer avec vous via son Facebook ; elle a tant d'expériences vécues, tant à dire quant à ce «défi K2» que bien des pages et conférences vont être nécessaires... et très intéressantes. Dans la dernière communication, il y a quelques heures, Monique regrettait, évidemment, que «Chhoghori » (K2) ne leur ait même pas offert l'opportunité d'un seul «push summit», d'autant qu'elle est restée tout le temps très en forme et avec un excellent moral. Monique a glissé, sans en dire plus, que des discussions au Camp de Base du K2 avaient conduit plusieurs alpinistes au projet d'une équipe pour un prochain défi de très haute montagne... Finalement, tout ce que Monique a pu vivre et ressentir, à tous les plans, c'est elle-même qui, en temps et lieu, et sous les formes qu'elle choisira, le partagera avec tous ses amis et supporters. Monique m'a prié de publier ses profonds remerciements à tous celles et ceux qui depuis des années croient en elle, la suivent, la soutiennent, l'aident et l'encouragent.
(picture: altitudepakistan.blogspot.ca/2013)
Day 25, July 27th. Avalanches which scrape slopes and uncover huge iced surfaces, changeable weather which deteriorates, snowfalls and abnormally high temperatures, water which unfurls on the Abruzzi slope, falling rocks, thunderstorms and rain at BC, the weather has become an ally of K2, saying loudly and clearly that its nickname of "Savage Mountain" perfectly matches its identity. This year K2 wants no one on its summit... Mike Horn who tried for the second time to summit K2 has given up (first time in 2013); "this is not a year when you can summit K2... " he stated. Nearby Broad Peak follows the same line; all the teams climbing towards its summit turned back; far too much snow, far too much wind, far too high probability of avalanches, snow and stones ...
During the last 3 days, climbing in daytime to the Advanced Camp, Monique and the other members of her team, continued to dig the snow to try to find their equipment buried under the avalanche of July 23rd. At night fall, they were all at Base camp, discussing the weather evolution, the state of the mountain, estimating the risks, balancing the pros and the cons of a new attempt, if a weather window comes. Then, between the Cesen route and the Abruzzi Spur, there was another strong avalanche, tumbling from about 7000m; powerful enough so that its whirlwind sides reached Camp I and II of the Abruzzi Spur. It is at Camp II or a little higher that should have been Monique and her team, if the last ascent plan had not been stopped by the avalanche (that had submerged the Advanced Camp).... Dangerous mountain by nature, and even more when weather conditions are unfavourable. With the loss of the equipment at ABC and CI, the decision not to continue the expedition was finally taken... In fact, all the teams, as much K2 as Broad Peak, gave up and got ready to leave the Base Camps, to get down the Baltoro glacier and to pursue the trekking until Askole (approximately 4 days of walking), then Skardu, then Islamabad.
In a few days Monique will be able to directly communicate with you via her Facebook; she has so many real-life experiences, so much to say as for this "K2 challenge" that many pages and conferences will be necessary ....and all very interesting. In the last communication, just a few hours ago, Monique obviously regretted that " Chhoghori " (K2) did even not offer them the opportunity of one single "push summit ", especially as she was all the time in great shape and with an excellent morale. Monique briefly slipped that discussions at K2 BC had led several climbers to think of a team project for a next very high altitude mountain... Finally, all that Monique was able to live and to feel, it is herself who, at the right time and place, and under the forms that she will choose, will share it with all her friends and supporters. Monique asked me to publish her profound thanks to all those who, for years, believe in her, are following, supporting, helping and encouraging her (picture: altitudepakistan.blogspot.ca/2013)
Durant les 3 derniers jours, montant le jour au Camp Avancé, Monique et les autres membres de son équipe ont continué à creuser la neige pour tenter de retrouver leur équipement enfoui sous l'avalanche du 23 juillet dernier. La nuit tombant, ils se retrouvaient tous au Camp de Base, discutant de l'évolution de la météo, de la situation de la montagne, évaluant les risques, pesant le pour et le contre d'une nouvelle tentative lors d'une prochaine éventuelle fenêtre météo. Puis, entre la voie Cesen et l'arête des Abbruzes, il y a eu une autre forte avalanche, déboulant de plus de 7000m ; suffisamment puissante pour que ses tourbillons latéraux atteignent les Camps I et II de l'arête des Abbruzes; c'est au Camp II ou un peu plus haut que devaient se trouver Monique et son équipe, si l'avant veille le dernier plan de l'ascension n'avait pas été stoppé par l'avalanche ayant submergé le Camp Avancé... Dangereuse montagne par nature, et encore plus lorsque les conditions climatiques sont défavorables. Avec la perte de l'équipement au Camp Avancé et au CI, la décision de ne pas poursuivre l'expédition a finalement été prise... En fait, toutes les équipes, tant du K2 que du Broad Peak, renoncent et se préparent à quitter le Camp de Base, à redescendre le glacier Baltoro et à poursuivre le trekking jusqu'à Askole (environ 4 jours de marche), puis Skardu, puis Islamabad. D'ici quelques jours Monique va pouvoir directement communiquer avec vous via son Facebook ; elle a tant d'expériences vécues, tant à dire quant à ce «défi K2» que bien des pages et conférences vont être nécessaires... et très intéressantes. Dans la dernière communication, il y a quelques heures, Monique regrettait, évidemment, que «Chhoghori » (K2) ne leur ait même pas offert l'opportunité d'un seul «push summit», d'autant qu'elle est restée tout le temps très en forme et avec un excellent moral. Monique a glissé, sans en dire plus, que des discussions au Camp de Base du K2 avaient conduit plusieurs alpinistes au projet d'une équipe pour un prochain défi de très haute montagne... Finalement, tout ce que Monique a pu vivre et ressentir, à tous les plans, c'est elle-même qui, en temps et lieu, et sous les formes qu'elle choisira, le partagera avec tous ses amis et supporters. Monique m'a prié de publier ses profonds remerciements à tous celles et ceux qui depuis des années croient en elle, la suivent, la soutiennent, l'aident et l'encouragent.
(picture: altitudepakistan.blogspot.ca/2013)
Day 25, July 27th. Avalanches which scrape slopes and uncover huge iced surfaces, changeable weather which deteriorates, snowfalls and abnormally high temperatures, water which unfurls on the Abruzzi slope, falling rocks, thunderstorms and rain at BC, the weather has become an ally of K2, saying loudly and clearly that its nickname of "Savage Mountain" perfectly matches its identity. This year K2 wants no one on its summit... Mike Horn who tried for the second time to summit K2 has given up (first time in 2013); "this is not a year when you can summit K2... " he stated. Nearby Broad Peak follows the same line; all the teams climbing towards its summit turned back; far too much snow, far too much wind, far too high probability of avalanches, snow and stones ...
During the last 3 days, climbing in daytime to the Advanced Camp, Monique and the other members of her team, continued to dig the snow to try to find their equipment buried under the avalanche of July 23rd. At night fall, they were all at Base camp, discussing the weather evolution, the state of the mountain, estimating the risks, balancing the pros and the cons of a new attempt, if a weather window comes. Then, between the Cesen route and the Abruzzi Spur, there was another strong avalanche, tumbling from about 7000m; powerful enough so that its whirlwind sides reached Camp I and II of the Abruzzi Spur. It is at Camp II or a little higher that should have been Monique and her team, if the last ascent plan had not been stopped by the avalanche (that had submerged the Advanced Camp).... Dangerous mountain by nature, and even more when weather conditions are unfavourable. With the loss of the equipment at ABC and CI, the decision not to continue the expedition was finally taken... In fact, all the teams, as much K2 as Broad Peak, gave up and got ready to leave the Base Camps, to get down the Baltoro glacier and to pursue the trekking until Askole (approximately 4 days of walking), then Skardu, then Islamabad.
In a few days Monique will be able to directly communicate with you via her Facebook; she has so many real-life experiences, so much to say as for this "K2 challenge" that many pages and conferences will be necessary ....and all very interesting. In the last communication, just a few hours ago, Monique obviously regretted that " Chhoghori " (K2) did even not offer them the opportunity of one single "push summit ", especially as she was all the time in great shape and with an excellent morale. Monique briefly slipped that discussions at K2 BC had led several climbers to think of a team project for a next very high altitude mountain... Finally, all that Monique was able to live and to feel, it is herself who, at the right time and place, and under the forms that she will choose, will share it with all her friends and supporters. Monique asked me to publish her profound thanks to all those who, for years, believe in her, are following, supporting, helping and encouraging her (picture: altitudepakistan.blogspot.ca/2013)
(Communication de Monique) (English follows) Jour 22, 24 juillet. Monique et l'équipe sont effectivement partis tôt, à 5 heure du matin, pour l'ascension. Le plan adopté était de passer le Camp I et monter jusqu'au Camp II, visant atteindre le sommet le 27. Malheureusement le plan a avorté... Arrivés au Camp de Base Avancé (ABC), aucune trace des tentes qui avaient été installées là au cours des rondes d'acclimatation... Presque toutes les tentes ont été ensevelies la veille par les derniers mouvements d'une grosse avalanche déboulant de 7000m jusqu'au ABC (5300m). Heureusement personne ne s'y trouvait à ce moment là. ABC est principalement un camp servant à stocker du matériel et de l'équipement nécessaires pour la suite de l'ascension. Monique rapporte avoir perdu pour l'heure son équipement, bottes de haute altitude, crampons, harnais, piolets, etc... Tous, avec ce dont ils disposaient, aidés un peu plus tard de quelques volontaires montés du CB pour les aider, se sont mis à fouiller la neige durant plus de 6 heures... sans succès. Mauvais «coup du sort»; l'équipement est indispensable pour l'ascension. Monique dit «c'est comme chercher une aiguille dans une meule de foin». Entre-temps des Sherpas montés au CI ne rapportent pas de bonnes nouvelles; ils décrivent des conditions difficiles; sur la pente qui conduit au CI, à plusieurs endroits l'avalanche a balayé la neige et mis à jour de grandes surfaces de glace; au CI les tentes ont été touchées et l'on se demande si l'équipement qui s'y trouvait est toujours là...; et puis les cordes fixes ont été endommagées... comble de malchance un des Sherpas a été blessé par une roche frappant une de ses mains. Toute l'équipe est actuellement de retour au CB. Les fouilles, certainement avec de l'aide supplémentaire, vont se poursuivre demain. La suite? Cela dépend maintenant de plusieurs autres facteurs qui s'ajoutent aux prévisions de chutes de neige annoncées d'ici la prochaine fenêtre météo. Monique dit être en forme et ne perdre ni le moral ni l'espoir.
(Communication of Monique) Day 22, july 24th. Monique and the team actually left early, at 5 am, for the ascent. The plan was to bypass Camp I and climb up to Camp II, aiming at reaching the summit on July 27th. Unfortunately the plan failed... Arrived at the Advanced Base Camp (ABC), none of the tents which had been settled during the acclimatization rounds were there... Almost all the tents had been buried the day before by the last moves of a big avalanche raging down from 7000m to the ABC (5300m). Fortunately nobody was there at that moment. ABC is mainly a camp serving to store the necessary material and equipment to keep on ascending. Monique reports to have, so far, lost her equipment; high altitude boots, crampons, harness, ice axes, etc..... Helped a little later by some volunteers who went up from BC, the team has searched the snow for more than 6 hours. But unsuccessfully. Bad "stroke of fate"; the equipment is essential for the ascent. Monique says "it is like looking for a needle in a haystack". Meanwhile Sherpas who went up to CI did not bring back good news; they describe difficult conditions; on the slope that leads up to Camp I, the avalanche swept the snow away leaving big surfaces of ice; At CI tents were also touched and we wonder what happened to the equipment which was inside; on top of that the fixed ropes were damaged... Sadly, one of the Sherpas was hurt by a falling rock one of the hands. The whole team has now returned to BC. The searches, certainly with additional volunteers, will continue tomorrow... What next ? It depends now on these other circumstances which have added to the forecast of snowfalls until the next weather window. Nevertheless, Monique says that she is in shape and not to lose morale or hope.
(Communication of Monique) Day 22, july 24th. Monique and the team actually left early, at 5 am, for the ascent. The plan was to bypass Camp I and climb up to Camp II, aiming at reaching the summit on July 27th. Unfortunately the plan failed... Arrived at the Advanced Base Camp (ABC), none of the tents which had been settled during the acclimatization rounds were there... Almost all the tents had been buried the day before by the last moves of a big avalanche raging down from 7000m to the ABC (5300m). Fortunately nobody was there at that moment. ABC is mainly a camp serving to store the necessary material and equipment to keep on ascending. Monique reports to have, so far, lost her equipment; high altitude boots, crampons, harness, ice axes, etc..... Helped a little later by some volunteers who went up from BC, the team has searched the snow for more than 6 hours. But unsuccessfully. Bad "stroke of fate"; the equipment is essential for the ascent. Monique says "it is like looking for a needle in a haystack". Meanwhile Sherpas who went up to CI did not bring back good news; they describe difficult conditions; on the slope that leads up to Camp I, the avalanche swept the snow away leaving big surfaces of ice; At CI tents were also touched and we wonder what happened to the equipment which was inside; on top of that the fixed ropes were damaged... Sadly, one of the Sherpas was hurt by a falling rock one of the hands. The whole team has now returned to BC. The searches, certainly with additional volunteers, will continue tomorrow... What next ? It depends now on these other circumstances which have added to the forecast of snowfalls until the next weather window. Nevertheless, Monique says that she is in shape and not to lose morale or hope.
Jour 21 à 22, 23 au 24 juillet. (G.) Il semble se confirmer qu'un général consensus ait été atteint pour saisir cette actuelle fenêtre météo. Elle est extrêmement courte. Mais les prévisions météo pour les jours qui la suivent ne sont pas très prometteuses d'une nouvelle fenêtre avant au moins une huitaine de jours. L'irlandais Jason Black est dans la même équipe que Monique. De lui vient la nouvelle la plus fraîche. L'incertitude climatique, le temps maussade qui prévaut et les prévisions guère réjouissantes pour ce qui s'en vient dans quelques jours ont généré un climat humain tendu entre l'impatience qui gagne les alpinistes et les leaders de Seven Summit qui focalisent sur les risques et la sécurité. Incertitude climatique et prévisions que chacun tend à analyser selon sa tendance dominante. Cette nuit, annonce Jason Black, un consensus pour grimper a té atteint; cette actuelle fenêtre météo est une opportunité; “c'est un Go”. Il est actuellement 4h30 du matin au CB; dans très peu de temps c'est le départ pour tous, vers le haut... Jason Black écrit: “La voie des Abbruzes va de nouveau me voir arriver... le 24 au Camp I (6050); le 25 au Camp II (6650m); le 26 au Camp III (7300m); le 27 au Camp 4 (8000m) et aux petites heures de la nuit du 28 “push summit” et sommet (8611m). Jason Black est dans la même équipe que Monique, alors Monique fait partie de l'ascension et de ce plan. Certainement Monique va le confirmer tout à l'heure.
Day 21 to22, July 23th to 24th. (G) Fresh news: a general consensus has been reached to seize this current weather window ! It is an extremely short one. But the weather forecast for the days that follow is not a clear prediction of a new window until at least about eight days... The Irish climber Jason Black is in the same team as Monique. From him comes the most recent piece of news. The climatic uncertainty, the gloomy weather which has been prevailing for a few days and the somber forecasts about what will come in a few days, all of this has generated a tense human climate between the impatience of the climbers and the Seven Summit leaders who focus on the risks and safety. Each one has more or less analyzed the actual weather and forecasts according to his/her dominant tendency. But, this night, announced Jason Black, a consensus to climb has been reached; this current weather window is an opportunity; "It is a Go". At K2 BC it is 5:00 am; in very little time it is the departure for all, ... upward... Jason Black writes: "we leave in the early hours of the morning on a solid five day push for the summit hoping to reach successfully the summit on 28th July. The Abbruzzi route will see me return to….. Camp one – 24th – 6050mts, Camp two – 25th – 6650mts, Camp three – 26th – 7300mts, Camp four – 27th – 8000mts Summit early hours 28th – 8611mts”. Jason Black is in the same team as Monique, then Monique is part of the ascent and its plan. Monique is certainly about to confirm this very soon.
Day 21 to22, July 23th to 24th. (G) Fresh news: a general consensus has been reached to seize this current weather window ! It is an extremely short one. But the weather forecast for the days that follow is not a clear prediction of a new window until at least about eight days... The Irish climber Jason Black is in the same team as Monique. From him comes the most recent piece of news. The climatic uncertainty, the gloomy weather which has been prevailing for a few days and the somber forecasts about what will come in a few days, all of this has generated a tense human climate between the impatience of the climbers and the Seven Summit leaders who focus on the risks and safety. Each one has more or less analyzed the actual weather and forecasts according to his/her dominant tendency. But, this night, announced Jason Black, a consensus to climb has been reached; this current weather window is an opportunity; "It is a Go". At K2 BC it is 5:00 am; in very little time it is the departure for all, ... upward... Jason Black writes: "we leave in the early hours of the morning on a solid five day push for the summit hoping to reach successfully the summit on 28th July. The Abbruzzi route will see me return to….. Camp one – 24th – 6050mts, Camp two – 25th – 6650mts, Camp three – 26th – 7300mts, Camp four – 27th – 8000mts Summit early hours 28th – 8611mts”. Jason Black is in the same team as Monique, then Monique is part of the ascent and its plan. Monique is certainly about to confirm this very soon.
(English follows) Jour 21, 23 juillet. (G.) Pas de récentes nouvelles de Monique, mais il devrait en arriver sous peu. Aux BCs des K2, Broad Peak,GI, GII, ce qui se “jouait”, il y a quelques heures à peine, c'était la décision de prendre la fenêtre météo actuelle ou d'attendre que le mauvais temps qui la suit cède la place à la prochaine fenêtre. Pas évident. Cette fenêtre actuelle c'est aujourd'hui le 23 jusqu'au 26; très très courte fenêtre; une “lucarne”... la prochaine serait due vers la toute fin juillet, début août, pour quelques jours. Mais après les chutes de neige les montagnes seront difficiles, ... et d'autant plus risquées. Au Broad Peak, des équipes sont au C2 et visent un push summit vendredi. Au K2, les avis et les élans n'ont pas dû faire l'unanimité; certains prêts à saisir la 23-26, d'autres préférant attendre la suivante. La petite équipe suisse de Mike Horn, plus autonome, a décidé de s'engager dans la 23-26; empruntant la “Cesan” (arête sud-sud-est; un peu plus longue que l'arête des Abbruzes mais moins exposée et évitant la “Pyramide Noire”) ils montent. Selon les informations diffusées ils sont actuellement au C3 et prévoient monter cette nuit au C4. Au-delà, la Cesan rejoint celle des Abruzzes. David Tait, de Himez Expedition, actuellement au CB du K2, informait qu'une “équipe est montée plus haut, mais extrêmement risqué”. Il voyait probablement l'équipe suisse; Mike Horn avait texté que “cela fait maintenant plus d'un mois que je vois le K2. Aujourd'hui nous y allons”. Quant à Monique, selon le consensus de l'équipe, elle est peut-être encore au CB ... ou également en route vers le sommet...
Day 21, July 23th. (G.) No recent news of Monique, but it should arrive soon. At the BCs of K2, Broad Peak, GI, GII, just a few hours ago, the “dilemma” was surely “should we seize the current weather window or wait for the bad weather which follows make way for the next window ?” Not obvious at all... This current window (July 23-26) is a very very short one; a "dormer window". The next one would be due by the end of July, beginning of August. But after several days of snowfalls, the mountains will be difficult, ... and all the more dangerous. At Broad Peak, several teams are at C2 and aim at a push summit on Friday. At K2 BC, the opinions and impulses should not have made the unanimity; some willing to seize the 23-26 window, others preferring to wait for the next one. Mike Horn's small Swiss team, more autonomous, decided to seize it; they left BC climbing up the "Cesan" (South-South-East Ridge; A little longer than the Abbruzi Ridge but less exposed and avoiding the " Black Pyramid "). According to a message they sent, they are at C3 and plan to climb to C4 tonight. Higher the Cesan joins the Abruzzi. David Tait, of Himex Expedition, presently at K2 BC, informed that " a team has gone higher, but extremely risky". He saw probably the Swiss team; Earlier Mike Horn sent this message on line: " I have been staring of K2 for more than a month. Today we go”. As for Monique... she might be still at K2 CB or climbing towards the summit...
Day 21, July 23th. (G.) No recent news of Monique, but it should arrive soon. At the BCs of K2, Broad Peak, GI, GII, just a few hours ago, the “dilemma” was surely “should we seize the current weather window or wait for the bad weather which follows make way for the next window ?” Not obvious at all... This current window (July 23-26) is a very very short one; a "dormer window". The next one would be due by the end of July, beginning of August. But after several days of snowfalls, the mountains will be difficult, ... and all the more dangerous. At Broad Peak, several teams are at C2 and aim at a push summit on Friday. At K2 BC, the opinions and impulses should not have made the unanimity; some willing to seize the 23-26 window, others preferring to wait for the next one. Mike Horn's small Swiss team, more autonomous, decided to seize it; they left BC climbing up the "Cesan" (South-South-East Ridge; A little longer than the Abbruzi Ridge but less exposed and avoiding the " Black Pyramid "). According to a message they sent, they are at C3 and plan to climb to C4 tonight. Higher the Cesan joins the Abruzzi. David Tait, of Himex Expedition, presently at K2 BC, informed that " a team has gone higher, but extremely risky". He saw probably the Swiss team; Earlier Mike Horn sent this message on line: " I have been staring of K2 for more than a month. Today we go”. As for Monique... she might be still at K2 CB or climbing towards the summit...
Jour 19, 21 juillet. (Comunication de Monique) Tragédie, tensions et nouveau délai. Le 19, et dans la nuit, il a beaucoup neigé dans la région du K2, une neige lourde, chargée d'eau. À environ 8 km du K2, s'élève le Broad Peak (8047m); sur une pente exposée, cocktail de neige mouillée et de température anormalement élevée, une tragique avalanche a emporté 7 personnes, d'un groupe d'alpinistes chinois et japonais, avec HAPs et Sherpa, qui montait au Camp 1. Un groupe de secours s'est immédiatement constitué et mobilisé. L'on déplore hélas la mort d'un HAP (“High Altitude Porter” pakistanais, l'équivalent si on veut d'un sherpa népalais) . Condoléances à sa famille. Il y a aussi des blessés. Ils ont reçu les premiers soins au Camp de Base, en attendant, pour certains, d'être évacués vers Skardu. Mais pour l'heure le mauvais temps bloque la venue des hélicoptères de l'armée. L'on se souvient de la meutrière avalanche de l'Everest, versant sud, proche du Camp de Base, survenue le 18 avril 2014,; les guides mirent fin à la saison; il y eut de ce fait “quelques” tensions entre les alpinistes et les sherpas. L'on se souvient aussi de la regrettable “querelle” au camp de base de l'Everest, impliquant deux ou trois alpinistes célèbres et la communauté des sherpas, fin avril 2013. Cela juste pour rappeler un contexte sensible. Broad Peak, la montagne, a pris la vie d'un HAP et des alpinistes sont blessés... en ce 20 juillet l'événement tragique a refroidi et stoppé les élans,. Nous devions grimper demain, pour saisir et profiter de cette fenêtre météo de quelques jours. Mais les malheureux événements en ont décidé autrement... pas que les événements... les discussions aussi; entre l'arrêt de l'expédition, option envisagée par les HAP, et sa poursuite, désir des alpinistes. Et puis s'est ajoutée une difficulté de nature “technique”, relative aux cordes nécessaires pour l'ascension au Camp 4. Bref, nous ne montons pas demain et devons attendre la prochaine fenêtre météo; la récente neige doit aussi pouvoir se stabiliser. À 564 mètres plus haut que le Broadpeak le sommet du K2 est comme une prise solitaire qui se connecte dans le “jetstream” générant une difficile météo; quand momentanément cette liaison se déconnecte, surviennent alors ces quelques jours propices pour grimper vers le sommet. C'est cela que nous attendons; la prochaine “fenêtre météo”. Elle devrait survenir d'ici la fin juillet... Georges m'a fait part de votre soutien et encouragements, merci à tous.
Day 19, July 21. (Comunication of Monique) Tragedy, tensions and new deadline. On July 19th, day and night, it snowed a lot in the K2 region; a heavy snow, charged with water. At about 8 km away from K2, rises Broad Peak (8047m). On an exposed slope, a cocktail of wet snow and abnormally warm temperature, triggered a tragic avalanche that swept 7 people. All of a group of Chinese and Japanese climbers, with HAPs and Sherpa, who were climbing to Camp 1. A rescue group immediately constituted and moved for help. We mourn the death of a HAP (Pakistani "High Altitude Porter", the equivalent, so to say, of a Nepalese Sherpa). Condolences to his family. There are also wounded climbers. They received the first care in the Base Camp. Some need to be evacuated to Skardu. But for the moment the bad weather impedes the coming of the helicopters.
We remember the deadly avalanche of the Everest, close to the Base Camp, on April 18th, 2014; Guides and Sherpas put an end to the season; some tensions between the climbers and the Sherpas followed. We also remember the regrettable "quarrel" that burst at the end of April, 2013, in the Everest Base Camp, involving two or three famous Western climbers and the Sherpa community. Mention of this is just to recall that there is a recurrent sensitive context. Broad Peak, the mountain, took the life of a HAP and climbers are wounded. On this July 20th, the tragic event cooled down and stopped the impulse. The climb was planned for tomorrow, to take advantage of the weather window. But the tragic event decided otherwise ... not only the event ... some discussion too; there were arguments for the stop of the expedition, option envisaged by the HAPs, and arguments put forward by the climbers for its pursuit. On top of this, there was the issue of a "technical" difficulty involving the necessary ropes for climbing to Camp 4. So, we won't start climbing tomorrow and have to wait for the next upcoming weather window; wait also for the recent fresh snow to stabilize.
564 meters higher than Broad Peak the K2 summit is like a solitary “plug” which connects to the "jetstream", generating a difficult weather; when this system disconnects, it makes way to the few favorable days for climbing. That's what we are expecting; the next "weather window". It should happen by the end of July... Georges transmitted your messages, support and encouragements to me; thank you all very much !
Day 19, July 21. (Comunication of Monique) Tragedy, tensions and new deadline. On July 19th, day and night, it snowed a lot in the K2 region; a heavy snow, charged with water. At about 8 km away from K2, rises Broad Peak (8047m). On an exposed slope, a cocktail of wet snow and abnormally warm temperature, triggered a tragic avalanche that swept 7 people. All of a group of Chinese and Japanese climbers, with HAPs and Sherpa, who were climbing to Camp 1. A rescue group immediately constituted and moved for help. We mourn the death of a HAP (Pakistani "High Altitude Porter", the equivalent, so to say, of a Nepalese Sherpa). Condolences to his family. There are also wounded climbers. They received the first care in the Base Camp. Some need to be evacuated to Skardu. But for the moment the bad weather impedes the coming of the helicopters.
We remember the deadly avalanche of the Everest, close to the Base Camp, on April 18th, 2014; Guides and Sherpas put an end to the season; some tensions between the climbers and the Sherpas followed. We also remember the regrettable "quarrel" that burst at the end of April, 2013, in the Everest Base Camp, involving two or three famous Western climbers and the Sherpa community. Mention of this is just to recall that there is a recurrent sensitive context. Broad Peak, the mountain, took the life of a HAP and climbers are wounded. On this July 20th, the tragic event cooled down and stopped the impulse. The climb was planned for tomorrow, to take advantage of the weather window. But the tragic event decided otherwise ... not only the event ... some discussion too; there were arguments for the stop of the expedition, option envisaged by the HAPs, and arguments put forward by the climbers for its pursuit. On top of this, there was the issue of a "technical" difficulty involving the necessary ropes for climbing to Camp 4. So, we won't start climbing tomorrow and have to wait for the next upcoming weather window; wait also for the recent fresh snow to stabilize.
564 meters higher than Broad Peak the K2 summit is like a solitary “plug” which connects to the "jetstream", generating a difficult weather; when this system disconnects, it makes way to the few favorable days for climbing. That's what we are expecting; the next "weather window". It should happen by the end of July... Georges transmitted your messages, support and encouragements to me; thank you all very much !
(English follows). (Georges) Jour 17. Dimanche 19 juillet.
Monique a terminé la dernière rotation d'acclimatation. Elle est maintenant au Camp de Base.
Étant de la deuxième ronde des rotations (Monique et Arvid), il y avait un peu plus de place aux petits et étroits Camp1 et Camp2 où elle a passé deux nuits.
Du C2, Monique est montée, seule, vers le C3, jusqu'à un peu plus de 7000m. Puis, le climat a rapidement changé, les nuages ont occulté le soleil, les vents se sont mis à souffler bien plus fort et la température a chuté. Monique sentant le froid s'imposer sur mains, est redescendue au C2, et de là au Camp de Base.
Ce sont de forts et brusques contrastes climatiques sur les pentes du K2; quand il y a du soleil il fait vraiment chaud, mais lorsque les nuages et les vents prennent le dessus il fait froid. Depuis son retour au CB il ne fait pas très beau. Le temps est couvert avec quelques percées d'un timide soleil. Cependant tous se considèrent “chanceux” ; il y a certes beaucoup de neige mais jusqu'à présent la météo a été globalement bonne, … considérant son caractère souvent «irascible» sur la “Montagne Sauvage”. Monique est en grande forme !
Maintenant, comme tous, elle attend la “fenêtre météo”; 4 à 6 jours de “beau temps”, qui devrait probablement survenir dans les prochains jours. Alors, ce sera, de camp en camp, l'ascension vers le sommet du K2...
(Photos: - Altitude des camps: snowbrains.com - Camp de Base; source: davidtait.com)
(Georges) Day 17. Sunday, July 19th.
Monique ended the last rotation of acclimatization. She is now at the Base Camp. Since this was the second round of the rotations (Monique and Arvid), they found a little more room on the small and narrow Camp1 (19.849 ft) and Camp2 (22.310 ft). She spent two nights up-there.
From C2, Monique climbed, alone, towards C3, until 22.966 ft or so. Then, the climate quickly changed; clouds darkened the sun, winds began blowing much harder and the temperature dropped. Monique feeling the cold freezing her hands, climbed down to C2, and from there kept on moving down to reach Base Camp.
There are strong and sudden climatic changes on the K2 slopes; when the sun shines it is really hot, but when clouds and winds take over, it gets colder and colder.
Since her return in BC, the weather is not very good. The sky is covered with some breakthroughs of a rather shy sun. However, all of the climbers consider themselves "fortunate"; of course there is a lot of snow, but until now the weather conditions were overall good, ... considering its often "quick-tempered" character on the " Wild Mountain ".
Monique is in great form ! Now, as every one, she is waiting for the "Weather Window"; 4 to 6 days of "good weather". This should probably happen in the coming days. Then, from camp to camp, it will be the ascent towards the summit of K2...
(Photos: - Camps Altitude: snowbrains.com - Base Camp; source: davidtait.com)
Monique a terminé la dernière rotation d'acclimatation. Elle est maintenant au Camp de Base.
Étant de la deuxième ronde des rotations (Monique et Arvid), il y avait un peu plus de place aux petits et étroits Camp1 et Camp2 où elle a passé deux nuits.
Du C2, Monique est montée, seule, vers le C3, jusqu'à un peu plus de 7000m. Puis, le climat a rapidement changé, les nuages ont occulté le soleil, les vents se sont mis à souffler bien plus fort et la température a chuté. Monique sentant le froid s'imposer sur mains, est redescendue au C2, et de là au Camp de Base.
Ce sont de forts et brusques contrastes climatiques sur les pentes du K2; quand il y a du soleil il fait vraiment chaud, mais lorsque les nuages et les vents prennent le dessus il fait froid. Depuis son retour au CB il ne fait pas très beau. Le temps est couvert avec quelques percées d'un timide soleil. Cependant tous se considèrent “chanceux” ; il y a certes beaucoup de neige mais jusqu'à présent la météo a été globalement bonne, … considérant son caractère souvent «irascible» sur la “Montagne Sauvage”. Monique est en grande forme !
Maintenant, comme tous, elle attend la “fenêtre météo”; 4 à 6 jours de “beau temps”, qui devrait probablement survenir dans les prochains jours. Alors, ce sera, de camp en camp, l'ascension vers le sommet du K2...
(Photos: - Altitude des camps: snowbrains.com - Camp de Base; source: davidtait.com)
(Georges) Day 17. Sunday, July 19th.
Monique ended the last rotation of acclimatization. She is now at the Base Camp. Since this was the second round of the rotations (Monique and Arvid), they found a little more room on the small and narrow Camp1 (19.849 ft) and Camp2 (22.310 ft). She spent two nights up-there.
From C2, Monique climbed, alone, towards C3, until 22.966 ft or so. Then, the climate quickly changed; clouds darkened the sun, winds began blowing much harder and the temperature dropped. Monique feeling the cold freezing her hands, climbed down to C2, and from there kept on moving down to reach Base Camp.
There are strong and sudden climatic changes on the K2 slopes; when the sun shines it is really hot, but when clouds and winds take over, it gets colder and colder.
Since her return in BC, the weather is not very good. The sky is covered with some breakthroughs of a rather shy sun. However, all of the climbers consider themselves "fortunate"; of course there is a lot of snow, but until now the weather conditions were overall good, ... considering its often "quick-tempered" character on the " Wild Mountain ".
Monique is in great form ! Now, as every one, she is waiting for the "Weather Window"; 4 to 6 days of "good weather". This should probably happen in the coming days. Then, from camp to camp, it will be the ascent towards the summit of K2...
(Photos: - Camps Altitude: snowbrains.com - Base Camp; source: davidtait.com)
Jour 13 (English follows). Mercredi 15 juillet. Après avoir terminé une des rotations nécessaires à l'acclimatation, Monique est de retour au Camp de Base. Ce 15 juillet fut un jour de repos. Monique en a profité pour rendre visite au «Gilkey Memorial», un promontoire pyramidal de sable et de pierres, érigé proche du Camp de Base, en hommage à tous les alpinistes morts sur les pentes abruptes du K2. Moment d'émotion pour Monique lorsque son regard s'est posé sur la plaque commémorative du canadien Jeff Lakes, mort le 15 août 1995, il avait 33 ans. Le K2 n'est pas «simple»...
Le 13 août 1995, il y a 20 ans. Plusieurs équipes d'alpinistes, parmi elles un canadien, se rejoignaient au Camp 4 (7600m). À environ une dizaine d'heures du sommet, Peter Hillary, le fils de Sir Edmund Hillary (premier alpiniste, avec le sherpa Tensing Norgay, à avoir atteint le sommet de l'Everest en 1953), notant que le temps, jusqu'alors si beau et calme prenait rapidement des couleurs menaçantes, décide de redescendre. Vers 18h45, 6 alpinistes atteignent le sommet du K2; les 6 moururent dans la descente, pris dans une dramatique tempête. Jeff Lakes, le canadien de Calgary, probablement “sentant” le danger, et se sentant mal, avait quant à lui rebroussé chemin, renonçant au sommet... Pris cependant aussi dans la tempête qui fait rage, il réussit tant bien que mal, en fait plutôt mal que bien,... à finalement atteindre le Camp 2. Il mourut là, des suites de l'exposition prolongée aux conditions extrêmes de la “Montagne Sauvage”... Le K2 n'est pas «simple».
Monique, dès demain s'engage pour la dernière rotation d'acclimatation. Il fait beau ; il faut en profiter ! D'autant qu'arrivée tard au Camp de Base (voir les nouvelles précédentes depuis son arrivée à Islamabad), il ne restait que peu de temps pour s'acclimatiser et être «prêt» pour la fenêtre météo pour le «push summit». Sauf variable, Monique, demain, grimpera de nouveau au C1; elle y passera une nuit, puis grimpera au C2 (6700m), puis poursuivra l'ascension vers le Camp 3 pour redescendre au Camp 1, y passer une nouvelle nuit et finalement redescendre au Camp de Base. L'acclimatisation sera alors accomplie ! Repos au CB, et commencera ensuite l'aventure courageuse, en plusieurs étapes, vers le sommet.
(Georges) Day 13. Wednesday, July 15th. Monique completed one of the necessary acclimatization rounds. She is now back to the Base Camp. This July 15th was a rest day. Monique took advantage of it to visit the "Gilkey Memorial", a pyramidal rocky promontory, erected next to the Base Camp, which commemorates climbers who died on the K2's icy and snowy dangerous steep slopes. Moment of emotion for Monique when she saw the commemorative plate of the Canadian Jeff Lakes, who died 20 years ago. He was 33 years old. K2 is not "easy"...
K2, August 13th, 1995. Several teams of climbers, among which a Canadian, came together at Camp 4 (24,900 ft). At about ten hours of the summit, Peter Hillary, the son of Sir Edmund Hillary (first climber, with the Sherpa Tensing Norgay, to have reached the Everest's summit in 1953), noted that the weather, which until then had been so beautiful and quiet, was quickly taking threatening colors. He decides to climb down. At about 6:45 pm, 6 other climbers reached the K2's summit; all 6 died in the descent, stuck in a dramatic fatal storm. Jeff Lakes, the Canadian of Calgary, probably "feeling" the danger, and feeling sick, had turned back, giving up the summit... However, also hit by the storm which was raging, he managed with great difficulty to finally reach Camp 2. He died there, consequence of the long exposure to the extreme conditions of the " Wild Mountain "… K2 is not "easy"...
Tomorrow Monique will climb up for the last acclimatization round. The weather being beautiful, she must take advantage of it. Her team arrived late at the Base Camp (read the previous news following her arrival in Islamabad). So, there was no time to loose and quick start and conclude the acclimatization, so as to be "ready" for the weather window for the summit push. Except variable, Monique will be climbing again on C1 Tomorrow, will spend a night there, then will climb up to C2 (21981 ft), then will pursue the ascent towards Camp 3 and come down back to Camp 1, spend there another night and finally come down to Base Camp. Acclimatization will then be achieved ! In BC it will be a rest period and then will start the “courageous” adventure, in several stages, towards the summit...
Le 13 août 1995, il y a 20 ans. Plusieurs équipes d'alpinistes, parmi elles un canadien, se rejoignaient au Camp 4 (7600m). À environ une dizaine d'heures du sommet, Peter Hillary, le fils de Sir Edmund Hillary (premier alpiniste, avec le sherpa Tensing Norgay, à avoir atteint le sommet de l'Everest en 1953), notant que le temps, jusqu'alors si beau et calme prenait rapidement des couleurs menaçantes, décide de redescendre. Vers 18h45, 6 alpinistes atteignent le sommet du K2; les 6 moururent dans la descente, pris dans une dramatique tempête. Jeff Lakes, le canadien de Calgary, probablement “sentant” le danger, et se sentant mal, avait quant à lui rebroussé chemin, renonçant au sommet... Pris cependant aussi dans la tempête qui fait rage, il réussit tant bien que mal, en fait plutôt mal que bien,... à finalement atteindre le Camp 2. Il mourut là, des suites de l'exposition prolongée aux conditions extrêmes de la “Montagne Sauvage”... Le K2 n'est pas «simple».
Monique, dès demain s'engage pour la dernière rotation d'acclimatation. Il fait beau ; il faut en profiter ! D'autant qu'arrivée tard au Camp de Base (voir les nouvelles précédentes depuis son arrivée à Islamabad), il ne restait que peu de temps pour s'acclimatiser et être «prêt» pour la fenêtre météo pour le «push summit». Sauf variable, Monique, demain, grimpera de nouveau au C1; elle y passera une nuit, puis grimpera au C2 (6700m), puis poursuivra l'ascension vers le Camp 3 pour redescendre au Camp 1, y passer une nouvelle nuit et finalement redescendre au Camp de Base. L'acclimatisation sera alors accomplie ! Repos au CB, et commencera ensuite l'aventure courageuse, en plusieurs étapes, vers le sommet.
(Georges) Day 13. Wednesday, July 15th. Monique completed one of the necessary acclimatization rounds. She is now back to the Base Camp. This July 15th was a rest day. Monique took advantage of it to visit the "Gilkey Memorial", a pyramidal rocky promontory, erected next to the Base Camp, which commemorates climbers who died on the K2's icy and snowy dangerous steep slopes. Moment of emotion for Monique when she saw the commemorative plate of the Canadian Jeff Lakes, who died 20 years ago. He was 33 years old. K2 is not "easy"...
K2, August 13th, 1995. Several teams of climbers, among which a Canadian, came together at Camp 4 (24,900 ft). At about ten hours of the summit, Peter Hillary, the son of Sir Edmund Hillary (first climber, with the Sherpa Tensing Norgay, to have reached the Everest's summit in 1953), noted that the weather, which until then had been so beautiful and quiet, was quickly taking threatening colors. He decides to climb down. At about 6:45 pm, 6 other climbers reached the K2's summit; all 6 died in the descent, stuck in a dramatic fatal storm. Jeff Lakes, the Canadian of Calgary, probably "feeling" the danger, and feeling sick, had turned back, giving up the summit... However, also hit by the storm which was raging, he managed with great difficulty to finally reach Camp 2. He died there, consequence of the long exposure to the extreme conditions of the " Wild Mountain "… K2 is not "easy"...
Tomorrow Monique will climb up for the last acclimatization round. The weather being beautiful, she must take advantage of it. Her team arrived late at the Base Camp (read the previous news following her arrival in Islamabad). So, there was no time to loose and quick start and conclude the acclimatization, so as to be "ready" for the weather window for the summit push. Except variable, Monique will be climbing again on C1 Tomorrow, will spend a night there, then will climb up to C2 (21981 ft), then will pursue the ascent towards Camp 3 and come down back to Camp 1, spend there another night and finally come down to Base Camp. Acclimatization will then be achieved ! In BC it will be a rest period and then will start the “courageous” adventure, in several stages, towards the summit...
Jour 10. Dimanche 12 juillet. Message de Monique: “Avec Arvid je suis dans la deuxième “rotation” (la première est constituée des 6 autres membres); nous tous sommes dans les rondes d'acclimatisation. Je suis monté au Camp 1 (6050m), redescendue au Camp de Base, remontée au Camp 1 où je me trouve présentement. Demain je monte au Camp 2... si le temps le permet... À plusieurs égards, et là particulièrement quant à la météo, la montagne porte bien son qualificatif de “sauvage”... le temps à 6000m est couvert et ... à la pluie. Pas le mieux pour garder “au sec” les vêtements et l'équipement. Il y a eu plusieurs avalanches produites par les forts vents qui soufflent plus hauts vers le sommet, mais rien de “surprenant” avec le K2 et sa réputation...
Nous verrons donc demain... si nous pouvons monter au Camp 2 (6700m), de là, plus tard, nous redescendrons au CB; acclimatisation oblige ! Je suis en forme et pense à vous tous qui m'aidez et me soutenez; Merci !”
Day 10. Sunday, July 12th. Monique's message: " Arvid and I are in the second "rotation" (the first one is constituted by the 6 other team members); we are all in the acclimatization rounds. We climbed to the Camp 1 (6050m), got down back to the Base Camp, climbed again to C1 where I am at present with Arvid. Tomorrow we should be climbing to the Camp 2 ...if the weather allows it... In several respects, and particularly as far as the weather is concerned, the mountain bears well, its qualifier of "savage"... The weather, at 6000m, is covered and ...in the rain. Not the best to keep "dry" clothes and equipment... A few major avalanches came down the slopes, they were triggered by strong winds blowing much higher towards the K2 summit, but "nothing surprising” with K2 and its reputation... So all good! We shall thus see tomorrow if we can climb to the Camp 2 (6700m), from there, later, we shall get down again to the BC; acclimatization obliges ! I am well and in great shape, and thinking of you all who help and support me; thank you ! "
Nous verrons donc demain... si nous pouvons monter au Camp 2 (6700m), de là, plus tard, nous redescendrons au CB; acclimatisation oblige ! Je suis en forme et pense à vous tous qui m'aidez et me soutenez; Merci !”
Day 10. Sunday, July 12th. Monique's message: " Arvid and I are in the second "rotation" (the first one is constituted by the 6 other team members); we are all in the acclimatization rounds. We climbed to the Camp 1 (6050m), got down back to the Base Camp, climbed again to C1 where I am at present with Arvid. Tomorrow we should be climbing to the Camp 2 ...if the weather allows it... In several respects, and particularly as far as the weather is concerned, the mountain bears well, its qualifier of "savage"... The weather, at 6000m, is covered and ...in the rain. Not the best to keep "dry" clothes and equipment... A few major avalanches came down the slopes, they were triggered by strong winds blowing much higher towards the K2 summit, but "nothing surprising” with K2 and its reputation... So all good! We shall thus see tomorrow if we can climb to the Camp 2 (6700m), from there, later, we shall get down again to the BC; acclimatization obliges ! I am well and in great shape, and thinking of you all who help and support me; thank you ! "
Jour 8 (English follows), le 9 juillet 2015. Camp de Base. Au matin Monique et tous les autres membres de l'équipe, ont assisté à la célébration d'une “Puja”, un rituel bouddhiste de vénération, de gratitude et d'offrande envers “la déité” de la montagne et accessoirement de “bénédiction” protectrice de tous celles et ceux, équipement compris, qui vont entreprendre l'ascension.
Aujourd'hui, le 10 juillet, Monique monte au Camp de Base Avancé et redescendra au Camp de Base, porsuivant ainsi son acclimatation. Le “push summit” pourrait survenir, dit-elle, vers le 23 du mois, ce qui signifie une rythme soutenu des phases de l'ascension; camps 1, 2, 3 etc... À suivre...
Day 8, July 9th, 2015. Base Bamp. In the morning, along with the team members, Monique attended the "Puja" celebration, a Buddhist rite of worship, gratitude and offering to “the deity" of the mountain and, additionally, the protective "blessing" of all those, including their equipment, who are going to undertake the K2 ascent.
Today, July 10th, Monique is climbing to the Advanced Base Camp and will come down to the Base Camp, in order to get acclimatized. Monique has said that the "Push summit" could happen, by July 23nd, which means a steady rhythm of the phases of the ascent; camps 1, 2, 3 etc.... To be followed...
Aujourd'hui, le 10 juillet, Monique monte au Camp de Base Avancé et redescendra au Camp de Base, porsuivant ainsi son acclimatation. Le “push summit” pourrait survenir, dit-elle, vers le 23 du mois, ce qui signifie une rythme soutenu des phases de l'ascension; camps 1, 2, 3 etc... À suivre...
Day 8, July 9th, 2015. Base Bamp. In the morning, along with the team members, Monique attended the "Puja" celebration, a Buddhist rite of worship, gratitude and offering to “the deity" of the mountain and, additionally, the protective "blessing" of all those, including their equipment, who are going to undertake the K2 ascent.
Today, July 10th, Monique is climbing to the Advanced Base Camp and will come down to the Base Camp, in order to get acclimatized. Monique has said that the "Push summit" could happen, by July 23nd, which means a steady rhythm of the phases of the ascent; camps 1, 2, 3 etc.... To be followed...
8 Juillet (English follows). Après 90 km de trekking Monique est arrivée au Camp de Base du K2. Le temps d'installer le camp, et sans délai commencer les rondes d'acclimatisation; la “fenêtre météo” devrait arriver d'ici 2 à 3 à semaines; pas de temps “à perdre” pour être “prêt” pour le “push summit”. Monique est en grande forme !
July 8th. The end of 90 km of trekking !: Monique has reached the Base Camp of K2. From now on, taking time to settle in the camp, and shortly starting the acclimatization rounds; the K2 "weather-window" should occur within 2 to 3 weeks; no time "to lose" to be ready for the" push summit ". Monique is in great shape !
July 8th. The end of 90 km of trekking !: Monique has reached the Base Camp of K2. From now on, taking time to settle in the camp, and shortly starting the acclimatization rounds; the K2 "weather-window" should occur within 2 to 3 weeks; no time "to lose" to be ready for the" push summit ". Monique is in great shape !
Jour 4 sur le trek (English follows). Monique est bien arrivée au camp Urdukas (4050m). "La vue sur les “Tours de Trango” est magnifique" a-t-elle dit (l'image provient de I'internet). J'espère que Monique me pardonnera pour ce qui suit..., moi (Georges) ose profiter de cette occasion pour vous dire que Monique est partie financièrement inquiétée... Elle est très reconnaissante à nous tous qui avons contribué à sa campagne de donation ..., mais il reste encore 48 % pour atteindre l'objectif... Aidons-la, elle et son projet en valent l'effort. C'est pourquoi, en guise de "noeud dans le mouchoir", j'ai inséré la figurine à l'image de Monique dans la photo des “Tours de Trango”. Merci. www.gofundme.com/k2monique
Day 4 on the trek. Monique has arrived safely at the Urdukas camp (4050m). She said, “magnificent view over the Trango Towers” (picture from Internet).
Hoping that Monique will forgive me for what follows..., I (Georges) dare to take this opportunity to tell you that Monique was a bit financially worried. She is very grateful to all of us who contributed to her donation campaign... but she is still 48% short to reach the "summit"... Let's help her, both Monique and her project are worth the effort ! This is why, as a reminder, I inserted the Monique figurine in the “Trango Towers” picture. Thank you !. www.gofundme.com/k2monique
Day 4 on the trek. Monique has arrived safely at the Urdukas camp (4050m). She said, “magnificent view over the Trango Towers” (picture from Internet).
Hoping that Monique will forgive me for what follows..., I (Georges) dare to take this opportunity to tell you that Monique was a bit financially worried. She is very grateful to all of us who contributed to her donation campaign... but she is still 48% short to reach the "summit"... Let's help her, both Monique and her project are worth the effort ! This is why, as a reminder, I inserted the Monique figurine in the “Trango Towers” picture. Thank you !. www.gofundme.com/k2monique
(3 juillet) Jour 2 sur le trek. Une marche d'une vingtaine de km, 6 heures environ, terrain difficile et haute température, le long de la rivière Braldu, du camp de Jhula (1ère nuit) au camp de Paiju (3450m), sorte d'oasis de verdure dominé par le mont Paiju (dit localement «la montagne de sel». 6611m). Monique et les deux équipes y passent la nuit et devraient se reposer demain avant de poursuivre la progression vers le K2 le long du glacier Baltoro.
D'autres équipes, qui ont déjà atteint les Camps de Base de leur objectifs respectifs (G1, G2 et Broad Peak), ont commencé les rotations d'acclimatation et informent de conditions d'enneigement assez fortes.
La terre a bougé, en Chine 160Km à l'Est du K2... pas d'incidence reportée, mais la chaîne Himalayenne n'est pas totalement apaisée...
Day 2 on the trek. An approximately 6 hour long walk along the Braldu river of about 20 km. Rough terrain and under hot temperatures, from the Jhula (1st night) to the Paiju camp (3450m), kind of green oasis, dominated by mount Paiju (locally named "the mountain of salt" - 6611m). Monique and the two teams are spending the night there and should rest tomorrow before pursuing the progress towards K2 along the Baltoro glacier.
Other teams, which have already reached their respective Base camps (G1, G2 and Broad Peak), have begun their acclimatization rotations and have informed of rather strong snow conditions.
The Earth shaked, in China, 160Km east of K2. No incidents reported so far, but the Himalayan chain has not totally calmed down...
D'autres équipes, qui ont déjà atteint les Camps de Base de leur objectifs respectifs (G1, G2 et Broad Peak), ont commencé les rotations d'acclimatation et informent de conditions d'enneigement assez fortes.
La terre a bougé, en Chine 160Km à l'Est du K2... pas d'incidence reportée, mais la chaîne Himalayenne n'est pas totalement apaisée...
Day 2 on the trek. An approximately 6 hour long walk along the Braldu river of about 20 km. Rough terrain and under hot temperatures, from the Jhula (1st night) to the Paiju camp (3450m), kind of green oasis, dominated by mount Paiju (locally named "the mountain of salt" - 6611m). Monique and the two teams are spending the night there and should rest tomorrow before pursuing the progress towards K2 along the Baltoro glacier.
Other teams, which have already reached their respective Base camps (G1, G2 and Broad Peak), have begun their acclimatization rotations and have informed of rather strong snow conditions.
The Earth shaked, in China, 160Km east of K2. No incidents reported so far, but the Himalayan chain has not totally calmed down...
Premier jour et première nuit sur le trek. Beau temps et paysage magnifique. À quelques centaines de mètres près voilà où se trouve Monique, actuellement sur le point de partir pour une autre journée de marche.
First day and first night on the trek. Good weather and magnificent landscape. Monique is presently just a few meters away from this spot on the map and is going to depart for another day of trekking.
First day and first night on the trek. Good weather and magnificent landscape. Monique is presently just a few meters away from this spot on the map and is going to depart for another day of trekking.
Jour 4. Monique informe qu'après 6 heures de jeep, l'équipe a atteint Askole, 2950m, le dernier petit village et porte vers les hautes montagnes du Karakoram. Ils campent pour une nuit et commencent demain le trekking... avec 400 porteurs.
Day 4. Monique has informed that after a 6-hour jeep drive they have reached Askole, 2950m, the last small village and gateway before "the wilderness" of the Karakoram mountains. They camp for a night there and will start trekking tomorrow, ... along with 400 porters.
Day 4. Monique has informed that after a 6-hour jeep drive they have reached Askole, 2950m, the last small village and gateway before "the wilderness" of the Karakoram mountains. They camp for a night there and will start trekking tomorrow, ... along with 400 porters.
Jour 1. Voilà, c'est vraiment parti ! D'une certaine façon le “vrai jour 1”; permis délivré... alors en route ! Ma demande d'aide se poursuit tout au long de mon défi K2. Merci à vous tous de m'aider !
Day 1. Here we go ! In one way this is "the real Day 1"; permit granted... so, on the way !My request for financial help will continue throughout my K2 challenge. Thanks to all of you for helping me !
Day 1. Here we go ! In one way this is "the real Day 1"; permit granted... so, on the way !My request for financial help will continue throughout my K2 challenge. Thanks to all of you for helping me !
JUIN 2015
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Court et partiel montage d'images saisies dans un café de Montréal. Voyez l'interview complet sur LCN.
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Dimanche 24 Mai
LCN, Mélanie Bergeron reçoit Monique et Chantale Richard. Monique soutient et aide la nécessaire cause de la visibilité et socialisation de la fibromyalgie (dont souffre sa soeur Chantale) et de l'encéphalomyélite myalgique. Monique a déjà monté le drapeau de cette cause au sommet de l'Everest et autres sommets des plus hautes montagnes de la Terre ! En juillet elle le montera au sommet du K2 ! Jeudi 14 mai 2015
The Westmount Independent Mercredi 13 mai 2015
Objectif: K2 !
Hier soir, au pied du Stade Olympique illuminé en bleu pour marquer la Journée Internationale de la Reconnaissance de la Fibromyalgie, au moment de la remise du drapeau de l'association de la fibromyalgie, j'ai annoncé mon objectif 2015: le K2 (Pakistan) ! ; deuxième montagne la plus haute du monde (8611m). Depuis plusieurs mois je travaille et me prépare pour cette expédition, à tous les niveaux. Il me manque cependant un complément financier et j'ai besoin de soutien, d'aide. J'ai créé une page à laquelle toutes celles et ceux désirant contribuer peuvent accèder: Gofundme.com/K2monique Merci à tous. Mardi 12 Mai 2015
Hier, nous étions une cinquantaine d'amoureux du Népal, rassemblés pour une soirée (sous l'Égide du Groupe des Grimpeurs et des Alpinistes Anonymes), dont l'objectif était de manifester notre soutien et aide aux népalais. Ce fut une excellente soirée qui a permis de rassembler des fonds substantiels (qui seront doublés par le gouvernement canadien) dans une ambiance de témoignages sincères et touchants d'amour pour ce pays de montagnes et pour tous ses habitants.
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Sunday, May 24th
LCN, Mélanie Bergeron welcomes Monique and Chantale Richard. Monique supports and helps the necessary cause of the visibility and the socialization of the fibromyalgia (of which suffers her sister Chantale) and from the myalgic encephalomyelitis. Monique has already gone up the flag of this cause at the top of the Everest and other summits of the highest mountains of the Earth! In July she will bring it up at the top of K2! Thurs, 14th May, 2015
The Westmount Independent Wednesday May 13th
Objective: K2 !
Yesterday evening, at the foot of the Montreal's Olympic Stadium illuminated in blue for the International Fibromyalgia Awareness Day and at the time of the delivery of the flag of the Fibromyalgia Association, I announced my objective 2015: K2 (Pakistan) ! ; the second highest mountain of the world (8611m). For several months I have been working to get ready, at every level, for this expedition. However, I have not been able to reach the needed financial target and so I need support. Should you want to contribute, please go to: Gofundme.com/K2monique Thank you, everyone ! Tuesday, May 12, 2015
Yesterday, we were about fifty lovers of Nepal, gathered for an evening (under the aegis of the Groupe des Grimpeurs et des Alpinistes Anonymes). The objective was to support and help the Nepalese. It was an excellent evening in an atmosphere of sincere and moving testimonies of love for this country of mountains and for all its inhabitants. This allowed to collect substantial funds (which will be doubled by the Canadian government).
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